THE ROOF SYSTEM:
- LOG RIDGE BEAN AND I-JOIST RAFTER ROOF: The most popular roof system we offer is a log ridge beam with I-Joist rafters. After you have stacked the gable end you will install the log ridge bean (if you have log purlins you will want to install them as you are stacking the gable). You will then need to determine the height of the ridge beam. After determining the height your builder will then notch the wall logs in the gable end to wrap around the bottom portion of the ridge beam. It may be easiest to take the wall logs back off of the wall and do this notch on the ground. Refer to the "Notching a Log in the Field" section about notching a log to do this notch. Most ridge beams are fastened to the walls with 2 lag screws or 2 regar pins. Check your engineering specs to determine the size and quantity of screws that are required to pin the ridge beam in place.
- SHIM THE ROOF: Now that the ridge beam is installed the next step is preparing to install the I-Joist roof rafters. In order to make the installation of the finished ceiling material and soffits easier may customers will shim the roof between the log and the I-Joist roof rafters. The purpose of this shim is to leave a gap that the finished roof material can slip into. If this shim is not installed it adds labor to hand scribe and cut the finished roof material such as a 1x6 T&G or sheet rock to fit around the logs. These shims will be load bearing. Make sure to use quality material that is wide enough to support the weight of the I-Joists that will be bearing directly onto them. Some customers will cut the tongues and grooves off of their 1x6 T&G and use the remaining board to create this shim.
- INSTALL I-JOINT ROOF RAFTERS: The fastening detail, size and spacing of I-Joist roof rafters is to be called out by your engineer to meet the structural conditions where the structure is to be built. We do ship an installation guide produced by the manufacturer of the I-Joists. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- BLOCKING: This is used to block and brace the I-Joists any time the I-Joist crosses over a bearing point. One of the main purposes of blocking is to keep the I-Joists from rolling or tipping over when a heavy load is resting on them. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- SUB FASCIA: After the I-Joist roof rafters are installed you will next install the sub fascia. This is typically a versa rim that attaches to the open ends of the I-Joists on the eaves. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- 5/8" ROOF SHEATHING: After installing the I-Joist roof structure you will sheet the roof. This is typically done with 4'x8' sheets of 5/8" OSB or plywood. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- CEDAR FASCIA: Most customers will finish their fascia with cedar. This is typically a 1x12 and also a 1x4 stacked on top of each other to give the roof an attractive two step look. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- FILL THE GAP ABOVE THE FASCIA: 1x12 cedar fascia material is typically not as tall as the I-Joist rafters, roof sheeting and the soffit material combined. IT is a good idea to hold down the cedar approximately 1" below the bottom of the I-Joist. Doing this will leave a gap above the cedar. You can fill in that gap b using lumber that is the same thickness as the cedar. You may be able to use the stickers that were used to separate the rows of logs in the bundles or possibly cut some of the 1x6 T&G meant for your soffits to fill this gap. This gap is then covered by the drip ledge.
- DRIP LEDGE: This is a colored piece of metal that is meant to protect the top edge of the fascia from being damaged by the weather. This also provides a decorative transition from the fascia to the finished roof material. This is available in many colors. You will need to select the color you prefer at the time the order is placed. The most common colors are dark brown and dark green. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- ICE & WATER SHIELD: This is a flexible roof underlayment that is adhesive on one side. It is required by code in many areas to be installed on top of the roof sheeting in valleys and a certain distance from the outside walls to the inside of any heated space. The Dry-In Package includes enough of this to do one layer in the valleys and one layer around the perimeter of the heated walls. **This is an Dry-In Package item. ** Some areas require ice and water shield for the entire roof. Check your local building codes for proper use.
- 30 POUND FELT: This is the underlayment that goes on top of the roof sheeting and underneath the shingles. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
- 30 YEAR ARCHITECTURAL SHINGLES: These are available in many colors. You will need to pick out the color you prefer at the time the order is placed. The most popular colors are rustic black and rustic green. **This is an Dry-In Package item.**
MAIN & 2ND FLOOR STICK FRAME WALLS:
Most customers will frame the non bearing partition walls after the 2nd floor and roof are installed. Where a stick framed wall meets a log wall you will want to cut a kerf in the log wall to slip your finished wall material into, such as sheet rock or 1x6 T&G. This kerf makes it easier to install the finished wall material. It also allows the log wall to settle without creating a gap where the log wall meets the framed wall. **This is an Dry-In Package item.** The Dry-In Package item does not include 2x framing for fur downs or mechanical chases, etc.
ALLOWANCE FOR SETTLING:
Evaluate the design of your home to determine whether you need to leave a settling gap at the top of your stick frame partition walls. A log wall will likely settle more than a vertical log post or 2x lumber. A piece of 1x slip trim may be installed to cover this gap later. This slip trim should not be fastened to the 2x framed wall. It should be attached to the upper structure that is likely to settle.
