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Log Home / Cabin Construction Guide
LOG 2ND FLOOR STRUCTURE:
- INSTALL THE POSTS: Before installing the post to support the loft floor you will need to determine the height to the bottom of the loft header. The best way to determine this height is to actually install the loft header before you cut the post to length. Most customers will have a "Cuda Notch" cut in the top of the post to cradle the loft header. Some customers will do this notch on site or do a flat and chamfer connection on site. Your log walls will likely settle a minor amount. Log posts will settle less than log walls. If you are installing settling jacks in your posts now is the time to do so. Most customers do not use settling jacks because the Swedish cope wall logs are so dry. We are not saying do not use settling jacks, only that most of our customers do not use them and do not experience settling complications. Often engineers will call for specific fastening detail such as lag bolts or knife plates to lock the post in place. Consult your engineering specifications to determine how to best fasten the bottom of the post to your floor.
- INSTALL THE LOFT HEADER: Before notching the wall to fit the loft header you will need to determine the height at which the loft floor joists will rest on top of the header. If your package includes cap and saddle notches, these notches will determine the bottom height of the top of the header. Notch the walls to fit the header not the header to fit the walls. This will leave the header as strong as possible. It is best to avoid having a door or window opening directly under a loft header. The loft header notch is typically done in the field by the builder. Most headers are fastened to the walls with 2 lag screws or 2 rebar pins. Check your engineering specs to determine the size and quantity of screws that are required to pin the header in place. The Veritas Scribe will transfer a pencil line on the wall logs and mark where the notch needs to be.
- LOG LOFT FLOOR JOIST INSTALLATION: Many packages with log loft floor joist systems come with wall logs that have special notches in them called cap and saddle notches. These notches are designed to fit around a log floor joist. Install the cap and saddle notches spaced as per the blue prints. Place gasket around the loft floor joists just before setting them in place to help create a weather-tight barrier. Most floor joists are fastened to the walls with 2 lag screws or 2 rebar pins. Check your engineering specs to determine the size and quantity of screws that are required to pin the floor joists in place.
- KERF WALL FOR 2x6 T&G: If you are using 2x6 T&G for the loft floor it is common to cut a kerf in the log to slip the T&G into. Cutting the kerf on the ground may be easier.
- 2x6 T&G: Most log packages with log loft floor systems utilize 2x6 T&G for the 2nd floor. This is included as part of the Premium Package. Even though the T&G is kiln dried it is wise to acclimate and additionally dry the T&G to minimize shrinkage. If you do not do this the T&G may shrink and possibly open a gap where 2 pieces meet together. To acclimate the T&G, unstack the bundles then restack them in layers with spacers between each layer. This will allow air to flow between the layers while acclimating the T&G to your local conditions. Using large fans to blow air through the layers will greatly speed the process up. Just before installing the T&G apply a bead of sub floor adhesive to the top of the floor joist where the T&G is going to sit. Do not let the sub floor adhesive dry before installing the T&G. Use screws or ring shank nails to fasten the T&G to the floor joists.
- CONVENTIONALLY FRAMED 2ND FLOOR OPTION: If you are doing a stick frame floor with I-Joists you will attach a ledger board to the wall. **The stick-framed material for the 2nd floor systems can be Dry-In Package items.**
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